August 12, 2011
0500 – 54°22.3’N x 10°09.9’E
By Matthew Maples
“Busy” is a word that could be used to describe the Europa on any day of the year. However, the past few days seem especially deserving of this description. We have on board a full complement of young European trainees who have been fully integrated as crew. Not only are they doing sail-handling, steering and lookout, but their duties extend to ship’s maintenance and even cleaning. They are getting the real experience of what it takes to run a deep-sea sailer like Europa. From furling square-sails high aloft, to looking down the bowl of the day’s dirty toilet, they are left with fresh hands rudely blistered by rough rope and brains burned by their quick learning of our hundreds of lines for our sails. Cheeks and noses are reddened from hours in wind and rain.
That alone is a daunting itinerary, but our trainees are packing yet more into their schedules. Their days go beyond the rails of our ship and ship life, to the boundaries of Europe. Sailing and sail-training is not the final goal for our trainees, our sails are a medium for cultural interaction. “Cultural Interaction” so what does that mean here? “Cultural interaction” is a mainstay on bark Europa, long before our current trainees arrived. Here, people from all over the world find themselves on a complicated sailing ship, needing to get from point A to point B. No single person can run this ship alone, many hands coordinated by teamwork make this ship run smoothly, and everyone needs to rise beyond the boundaries of their nation, its language and culture, to find the common ground on international waters on our international ship.
The array of “most diverse” crew awards we win in tall ship festivals is proof of how bedrock this concept is on board our ship. This time though, our trainees, subsidized by the European Union are going a step further. They are systematically learning classroom-style about one another’s respective culture and tackling whatever in-built prejudices they may have. Best of all though, is that they are introducing tenets of their culture to others via cooking a dish of their homeland for us daily. Thus far we have had our Swedish dinner of meatballs, a British dinner of minced onion pie and a Belgian dinner of stoempf sausage and mashed vegetables.
Hailing from Western Europe, Scandinavia and Portugal, our trainees are (I suspect) learning the most about each other when they are on long night watches at the helm, lookout, or passing time in the deckhouse. Meanwhile, I would fancy a bet that they learned the most about sailing during the squall we had yesterday evening.
After the calm of our voyage’s outset, and the windy (but steady) passage south from Halmstad, our squall shook awake any who may have become lackadaisical about sailing. Our watch came on-duty after dinner to relieve our shipmate’s and sent them down below. Then, the church spires of light-lit Copenhagen were passing on our starboard and the sky had the lapis lazuli and violets of twilight above the clouds. Any sense of early evening calm was lost, for off in that starboard distance drifted darkened pillars of deep-blue and black clouds, highlighted by bursts of silent lightning. Walls of distant rain fogged the air and land beneath the clouds. Tthis squall would be no surprise, its wicked intentions were quite apparent from afar. This time, Captain Klaas did not go for his customary post-watch beverage or to bed. He stayed near the wheelhouse.
We prepared. Halyards were made ready for rapid running as crew and trainees were stationed and ready to strike our highest sails. Then we waited. I stood at the helm with two trainees, watching our sails, wondering when we would almost certainly get hit. Te mate paced the deck in anticipation.
I saw it before I felt it. With a sudden whoosh the square sails all went aback, followed by strong wind. A full second passed, then the ship heeled over to port. I put the wheel hard to port to fall off from the wind, but a moment later, Klaas, like the wind he was responding to, whooshed into the wheelhouse, taking over the rudder and giving commands for sails to be struck. The sails were quickly on their way down, pulled away from the wind by our mob of wide-eyed, line-sweating trainees. Our top stack of squares, skysails, royals and topgallants were taken away and hands scampered aloft to furl them, securing them to the yards.
It was an orderly sort of chaos, but we weathered it well. Our trainees learned something of the excitement of sailing and a taste of its testing dangers. Now they see first hand why it is important to work together, communicate well, and exactly why we always Ballantine coil those halyards!
That was the 9th. This morning of the 12th we have dropped anchor at the entrance of the Kiel Canal in Germany. The coast and islands of Denmark are in our wake and Germany lies before us. Our voyage has been inundated with rain. For days it has been gray skies, fog and perpetual rain – the kind that slowly seeps into some seam or hand opening of your foul weather gear, and drop by drop, hour by hour, slowly makes you soggy anyway. It is the kind of rain that drop by drop, creeps into the wheelhouse, alarming the mate who calls for towels to protect our navigation charts! Scarcely can a coat hook be found on ship where wet weather gear is not dripping in vain attempts to dry them before a next watch. It is the kind of rain that you hope ends when you go to your bunk, but awake to hear that it has not ceased, decreased, or even increased since! It is not awful, but I guess it will make us all appreciate the sun whenever it comes back to Germany. I think we are starting to get used to the rain.
Better than the rain was our sail. We made it without engines for the vast majority of our little voyage from Halmstad to Kiel. The wind was quite variable, both in direction and wind speed, forcing us to set, dowse, and tack sail throughout our days all day. Lots of practical hands-on sail training for this batch of trainees, particularly for a spell in which we had to tack multiple times to make our way west after coming south from Halmstad.
The fickle but sometimes tenacious wind was even putting tears into some of our sails, namely the outer jib and both our courses (lowest, biggest square sail). While underway, we took those sails out of our rig and bent on fresh sail, sparing no time before setting it again. Our trainees did an excellent job in being helpful to our crew, tying on numerous robands and hank lashings to get those sails attached strong and ready!
Sailing, lots of wind, sail-handling, setting, furling, foul weather, fogged white-capped seas, tacking ship, sail repair and replacement…what more could our trainees want? They have weathered nearly the full gamut of the tall ship sailing experience.
Maybe a day of motoring in the Kiel Canal will be a welcome relaxing of our pace? Or will they soon become bored with the iron jib doing all their work?
We have a date in Hamburg to make, a short stopover to celebrate the birthday of our venerable square rigger.